by Tiziana Terenzi
Burdel is a bold, character-driven woody-spicy fragrance with a strong masculine lean, though it is marketed as unisex. The opening bursts with aromatic heat from cumin, cardamom, bergamot, and labdanum, delivering a pungent, assertive start that is immediately noticeable. The heart unfolds with warm, balsamic wood notes—guaiac wood, gurjan balsam, and cypriol—laced with a delicate, almost ghost-like lily of the valley, adding a subtle floral undertone that doesn't dominate. The dry down is deep, rich, and sensual, built around a foundation of Indian oud, sandalwood, ambergris, synthetic musk, and a creamy vanillic vanilla that softens the sharpness. Performance is exceptional: long-lasting and with enormous sillage, projecting boldly in both day and night settings. The overall impression is of a complex, layered scent—eschewing simplicity but not being overly chaotic. It evokes a sense of nostalgic, melancholic depth, working best in solitude or introspective moments rather than social settings.