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Opus XIV – Royal Tobacco
by Amouage
Royal Tobacco by Amouage is a dense, opulent smoke-and-resin fragrance that unfolds with bold theatricality. It begins with a strikingly potent mix of licorice, anise, fenugreek, and birch tar, creating an intense, slightly overwhelming opening that many describe as aromatic, medicinal, or even uninviting at first. Once this initial wave subsides—typically after an hour or so—the scent transitions into a complex, smoky tobacco heart intertwined with frankincense, balsamic amber, and a subtle vanilla sweetness. The dry down reveals the true mastery of the scent: smooth, woody, and rich, with a warm, smoky vanilla backbone and frankincense accents that linger for hours. The fragrance projects powerfully and has exceptional longevity, easily lasting beyond 12 hours on skin and clothing. While some claim it lacks a strong tobacco presence—calling it more incense or resin than tobacco—notable principles of quality control, cohesion, and wearability are consistently described as over-the-top, even when critics find the sweetness and intensity overwhelming. This is not a subtle or casual fragrance; its bold character demands purposeful wear with good sillage and lasting power, rendering it best suited for autumn or winter, evening or nocturnal events, rather than everyday or professional settings.
Pros
- +Exceptional longevity and projection: The fragrance lasts beyond 12 hours, even on clothing, and projects strongly, making it a true 'beastmode' performer.
- +Unparalleled depth and complexity: The evolution from fiery opening to smooth, warm dry down creates a deeply dynamic olfactory journey, often described as majestic or cinematic.
- +Strong sillage and presence: The fragrance commands attention, making it ideal for winter wear, formal events, or personal statement design.
Cons
- −The opening is intensely strong and polarizing: Many describe it as offensive, overly sweet, or dominated by licorice and birch tar, which can be off-putting, especially on first application.
- −Tobacco presence is inconsistent or muted: Despite its name, many note that tobacco is not the dominant note; some find it barely detectable, with incense or resinous notes overshadowing it.
- −Not suitable for daytime or office wear: Its heavy incense, resinous, and sweet profile makes it impractical for professional or social settings requiring discretion.