by Serge Lutens
Écrin de Fumée by Serge Lutens delivers a deeply evocative and atmospheric experience centered around bitter, dark cocoa, smoky tobacco, and a subdued boozy rum. The opening is notably dry and sharp, with a powdery, almost edible cacao note that feels both bitter and rich, setting a mysterious, elegant tone. Over time, the fragrance evolves into a warmer, spicier accord where the smokiness softens, giving way to a gourmand sweetness with hints of dried fruits and warm woods. It possesses a distinct Lutens signature—intimate, introspective, and unapologetically dark—reminiscent of a chicha lounge or late-night literary gathering, with a balance between smokiness and sweetness that feels well-integrated yet not one-dimensional. The aroma lingers moderately and projects a moderate sillage, best suited for cooler months, particularly autumn or winter, where its depth and warmth thrive. The fragrance is unisex, with a strong and striking identity that some find intoxicating and others perceive as overly sweet or chemically intense. While the tobacco and smoke are present, they serve more as background support under the dominant cacao and rum notes. Overall, it’s not a perfume that hides its gourmand nature—it wears its sweetness openly, which makes it undeniable and memorable for fans of dark, chewy scents in the vein of Chergui or Borneo.