by Mona di Orio
Santal Nabataea unfolds as a sophisticated, dry-spiced sandalwood with a cerebral elegance that sets it apart from typical vanilla-sweet or milky interpretations. It opens with a notably authentic coffee note—deep, slightly bitter, and devoid of cream—woven into a complex tapestry of black pepper, dry grainy sandalwood, and a subtle, nutty undercurrent that evokes both Mysore sandalwood and vetiver. The scent is linear and restrained, with a cool, slightly paper-pulp-like synthetic sandalwood base that lends a distinct pencil-shaving quality, making it feel more architectural than sensual. A powdery, faintly floral hint (likely oleander) adds a delicate softness, but sweetness is minimal, and the apricot note appears only as a faint, ghostly presence. The overall impression is of a smooth, tautly balanced composition that peers into ancient, arid landscapes—architectural, almost meditative. Its projection is light and intimate, more of a quiet whisper than a presence, with longevity measured in moderate to long durations, though some users note it dwindles quickly on the skin. The scent suits those who appreciate artful, minimalism in fragrance—those drawn to dry, spicy woods, coffee and incense, or perfumes with a restrained mystery. It lacks voluminous sillage and fails to project greatly, yet creates a deeply personal, intimate aura. It’s not for those wanting a creamy or gourmand sandalwood; nor for fans of loud or sweet-smelling perfumes. If you are drawn to unique sandalwood compositions with intellectual depth and emotional subtlety, this fragrance offers a rare, elegant experience. It rewards patience and careful wearing, especially in cooler seasons, where its dry warmth shines. It’s not a moment-maker, but a long-term companion that reveals subtle layers over time.