Lavender Thorne
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21 Conduit St
by Jovoy Paris
A distinctive, complex aromatic fougere with a strong initial impression of green, tart rhubarb, fresh citrus, and smoky lavender, evoking both medicinal grapefruit and an unexpected note of cannabis-like smoke on first application. Over time, it evolves into a dry, woody, and slightly sweet amber-laden fragrance centered around amaretto and tonka bean, with a pronounced, persistent ambroxan presence that becomes dominant in the drydown. The scent is unapologetically masculine with a strong presence, layering bitter green rhubarb, aromatic lavender, and balsam fir into a smooth, resinous wood structure. The sheer strength and animalic nuances in the drydown give it a confident, slightly provocative elegance, reminiscent of Roja Dove’s Elysium or Bentley Intense, though some find the ambroxan overwhelming. It unfolds slowly, revealing surprises—delicate hints of vanilla, candied almonds, and fresh cerulean green notes lingering beneath an intoxicatingly complex structure, creating a unique perfume experience best appreciated over hours rather than instantly. Performance is moderate to long, with good longevity and sillage for the profiling of an aromatic, unisex scent marketed for both day and professional wear, though some find the scent reduces to a faint skin scent quickly. Despite its challenges in its opening phase, its originality and depth make it a standout in the niche fragrance landscape.
Pros
- +Uniquely layered and transformative scent profile with a strong signature theme of rhubarb merging with woody, aromatic, and gourmand notes
- +Solid performance with a long longevity that persists well through the day
- +Biologically balanced and wearable across professional and casual settings, despite strong presence
Cons
- −Unpleasant initial impression for some, reminiscent of burnt cannabis or synthetic rubber
- −Dominant ambroxan can overshadow other notes, leading to a one-note dominance in the drydown and loss of subtlety
- −Opens with a challenging, smoky, and sharp green note that may not appeal to sensitive noses or typical aperitif preferences