by F. Millot
Crêpe de Chine is a rare and enduring vintage chypre that embodies the sophistication and refinement of early 20th-century French perfumery. It opens with a luminous, slightly medicinal aldehyde glow, highlighted by bergamot, neroli, and lemon, lending a crisp, radiant freshness. As it settles, the fragrance unfolds into a richly layered floral chypre heart: Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, and carnation form a lush, sensual core, balanced by herbal galbanum, earthy vetiver, and a subtle, powdery iris. The base is deeply woody and mossy—cedar, sandalwood, oakmoss, and patchouli—woven with amber, benzoin, and a soft, animalic leather that adds mystery and depth. The overall impression is elegant, restrained, and timeless: not sweet or soapy, but rather a refined, complex scent that lingers close to the skin with a quiet, dignified strength. It is universally regarded as unisex, with a strong masculine hint in its drydown, yet feels equally at home on a woman wearing evening gowns or a man in tailored suits. The longevity is exceptional, lasting for many hours, and the sillage remains moderate—close and intimate, yet noticeable at social distance. Its appeal lies in its authenticity, historical significance, and emotional resonance, evoking images of golden-era elegance, vintage elegance, and personal memory. It is a fragrance of depth, not overt drama, and feels modern in its balance despite its age. Most appreciate it as a sophisticated evening scent, especially wearable in winter and autumn, with a strong affinity for formal occasions, theatre, or nostalgic moments. It is not a bright, youthful fragrance; it is mature, complex, and emotionally evocative—well-suited for those drawn to the timeless elegance of classic chypres like Shalimar or Mitsouko.