by Issey Miyake
L'eau d'Issey is a polarizing vintage fragrance with a distinctive aquatic floral profile that stands out for its powerful projection and long-lasting presence. It opens with a vivid, fresh, and slightly sweet melon note that quickly blends into a dense, complex bouquet of white flowers—lily of the valley, freesia, cyclamen, lotus, and rose—all riding over an ozonic, slightly metallic base. The composition feels deliberate and stylish, with a crystalline clarity that some describe as clean, crisp, and refreshing, while others find it synthetic, medicinal, or overwhelming. This evolution is key: some experience an immediate, vibrant perfume that feels evocative and timeless, while others report a sharp, penalizing note of chemical freshness that induces headaches or dissatisfaction. Longevity and sillage are exceptional—most agree it lasts well beyond eight hours and projects gently but unmistakably, making it hard to overlook. It is most reliably enjoyed in spring and summer but can feel too intense in winter. The scent is iconic, emotionally resonant, and strongly associated with the 1990s, though opinions vary widely on whether it remains relevant or has aged poorly. It's not for everyone, but it remains a landmark in perfumery. It is particularly well-suited for those who appreciate fragrances that are fresh, floral, and purposefully evocative, willing to wear stand-out scents without being overtly sweet or heavy.