by Serge Lutens
Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens is a deeply textured, oriental woody fragrance that redefines vetiver as a complex, smoky, and accented ingredient rather than a dominant one. It opens with a bold, astringent vetiver note, sharpened by guaiac wood and iris, which quickly yields to a warm, mossy, and powdery base of amber, labdanum, sandalwood, and dark chocolate. The fragrance evolves into a subtly sweet, resinous, and dry-smoky composition with a lean toward masculinity that many appreciate, while others find it unexpectedly elegant and unisex. The perfumer eschews sweet gourmands in favor of a more refined equation — think of a blended stone cylinder of oakmoss, vetiver, and resin, dusted with powdered cocoa and incense. Longevity is moderate to strong, lasting 6–8 hours, particularly on clothing or in cooler weather. Projection is intimate and close to the skin, requiring a few sprays to register effectively. Though not a bright citrusy vetiver, it carries a distinct bitterness and depth that sets it apart from fresher, greener takes. It is recommended for evenings, autumn, and colder climates — a true layered, mature scent that reveals itself slowly.