by Le Labo
Vanille 44 is a dry, resinous vanilla with a smoky, woody foundation that feels more architectural than gourmand. The opening features sharp aldehydes, citrus (mandarin), and a peppery gaiac wood note that quickly softens into a muted vanilla heart. The vanilla is never dominant or sweet—instead, it weaves through incense, wood, and a dry musk, creating a restrained, sophisticated aura. It evokes an old cathedral, dusty antique books, or a quiet autumnal room, with a surprisingly intimate sillage and lack of projection. Longevity is moderate—around 6 to 8 hours on most skin types—and the scent dries down softly, almost dissolving into a powdery vanilla-musk-cloud. Despite its quiet performance, it has a compelling depth, balancing cleanliness with subtle sensuality. While not hyper-projective, it’s a high-quality, unisex scent that stands out in a sea of cloying vanillas. Its quality is frequently praised, but the lack of sillage and performance—especially for the price—commonly leads to frustration.