by Frederic Malle
Une Fleur de Cassie is a deeply complex, retro-inspired floral with a powerful, unique identity. The opening features a sharp, waxy aldehyde burst—often described as resembling wet cardboard or a dirty laundry sack—that gives way to a dense, creamy accord of mimosa and cassie. This floral heart is richly textured, with a powdery, slightly musty, sweet, and animalic quality that evokes vintage cosmetics, sun-warmed fabric, and golden pollen. The fragrance unfolds with a surprising depth: it balances an almost squalid intimacy with an elegant, noble grace. The base, built on sandalwood, vanilla, and musk, is warm and skin-complementary, with a muted, subtle sillage that wraps around the wearer like a second skin. On some, it fades quickly, but others report remarkable longevity and a lasting, intimate presence. The scent leans unisex but is associated with mature women due to its deep emotional resonance and lived-in aura—there is a sense of time passing, like memories of a long-lost summer. This fragrance is not for the faint of heart or those seeking a fresh, clean, or traditionally feminine floral. It is inherently polarizing: many find its texture emotionally evocative, even poetic, while others react with discomfort—some describe it as-body-scented, fecal, or skanky. Its unique composition, especially the high concentration of cassie absolute, makes it feel utterly one-of-a-kind. Despite being marketed as feminine, its emotional intensity, powdery texture, and complex depth invite appreciation from those drawn to vintage perfumery, dark florals, and artistic olfactory statements.