by Serge Lutens
Jeux de Peau by Serge Lutens is an intensely personal and evocative gourmand fragrance that unfolds like a sensory journey through a homely kitchen or a country bakery. It opens with a warm, edible buttery note reminiscent of toasted wheat and lacquered milk, interlaced with subtle coconut and licorice—a scent that feels both familiar and mysterious. The heart emphasizes a rich, spiced woodiness with prominent immortelle, which adds a slightly herbal, balsamic dryness that prevents the sweetness from becoming cloying. Over time, the perfume deepens into a softly gourmand base with creamy milk, sweet apricot, and delicate osmanthus, evoking memories of warm bread, dried fruits, and saffron-scented pastries. The drydown reveals a surprisingly durable and intimate scent, grounded in sandalwood and subtle ambery warmth, which lingers close to the skin with virtually no projection. While some describe it as exotic and otherworldly, others find it too dense or liken it to something under-dressed or even unpleasantly stale. The overall impression is of focused warmth, comfort, and a personal ritual—ideal for quiet winter evenings, when worn indoors, and cherished by those seeking depth and meaning over mere olfactory novelty.