Or Black

Or Black is a profoundly dark, leathery, balsamic chypre with a dense, smoked, mossy character that feels both ancient and futuristic. It opens with a sharp, peppery, anisic top note that lingers like a whisper—described by some as licorice-like or violet-like—with a thick, oily leather presence that builds into a rich, aromatic base laced with benzoin, labdanum, and tonka. The scent unfolds with layers of incense, earth, oak moss, and a subtle soapy warmth that avoids cloying sweetness, instead lending a balsamic depth that clings to the skin. While the vintage version is noted for its intense, almost volatile character—reminiscent of motor oil, aged leather, or wilderness moss—it has been reformulated in newer versions, which retain the core identity but shift toward a more modern, cleaner fougère profile with better projection and longevity. Despite the change, many still consider it a masterpiece, especially for those drawn to complex, masculine fragrances that are both assertive and elegant.