by Popy Moreni
Popy Moreni is a distinctive gourmand oriental with a strong vintage character, defined by its complex interplay of coffee, vanilla, and warm, powdery floral notes. The opening features a sharp, slightly bitter herbal freshness from coriander and geranium, layered over bergamot and ylang-ylang, creating a volatilized, almost medicinal initial impression. This quickly shifts into a dense, soft, and sweetly vanillic core, where vanilla, amber, and sweetly floral notes like heliotrope and mimosa merge into a powdery, luxurious base. The drydown brings in sandalwood, patchouli, styrax, and vetiver, lending depth and a slightly resinous, oily warmth. The perfume evolves in a way that many describe as transformative—initially intense, then mellowing into something elegant and comforting. It is particularly well-suited for colder months and evening wear, with a moderate sillage that lingers through the night. Some find the coffee note more subdued or candy-like rather than coffee-like, while others emphasize it as bitter, complex, and immediately noticeable. The EDT version is seen as more balanced and aromatic, with better projection and a smoother progression than the heavier EDp. The overall impression is that of a modern vintage fragrance—reminiscent of iconic 90s orientals but executed with greater nuance and warmth. It leans toward elegance rather than excess, with a blend that feels carefully constructed, intimate, and mature.